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ABL
(STEVENS) Resin & Glass
General
info & How To guide on GLASS FIBRE REINFORCED PLASTIC (GRIP)
Few
building materials can match the versatility and utility of glass fibre
reinforced plastic, commonly called GRIP for short or simply fibreglass.
Strong, lightweight and completely waterproof, it can be moulded into
free form shapes, such as boats, car wings, ponds, basins or furniture,
or laminated to make decorative wall panels, sills or roofing.
Formed of woven or felted glass fabric embedded in a plastic resin, the
material combines the best attributes of both. The strength of glass
fibres in the plastic makes the material rigid and resin gives it a
smooth impermeable surface.
The glass fibre fabrics that are used in laminating are mostly made up
of rovings, bunched strands of glass filaments. The rovings are pressed
into mat or woven into fabrics of varying densities; density is measured
in terms of the weight, in ounces per square foot, or grams per square
metre of fabric. The fabric weight as well as the forming method to be
used, determines the quantity of resin that will be needed.
Generally, a chopped strand mat takes two and a half times its weight in
resin; the ratio of resin to fabric for a woven cloth depending on type
can be up to two times.
Fabric choice depends on the amount of reinforcement needed and on the
type of resin being used.
Woven fabrics which are stronger, will not bond as well to each other as
they will with mat fabrics, it is best to alternate layers to ensure
even strength throughout the laminate, and to produce a smooth surface,
a fine glass fibre tissue is often used for the final layer,
alternatively coat over the final layer with ‘Flowcoat’ a gelcoat
type resin that cures touch-dry.
Although many resins are suitable for making fibreglass, polyester is
both the simplest and most economical; it provides excellent strength
and moisture resistance.
When it is laminated polyester’s normal high shrinkage during curing
is reduced to 2 per cent or less, and this slight shrinkage is often an
advantage. In moulded laminations it assists easy release from the
mould.
With moulds it helps enormously if unobtrusive holes are drilled and
taped over prior to applying PVA, into which compressed air can be
directed later when curing has sufficiently occurred for the removal of
the casting.
A bicycle hand pump is often enough.
When you are laminating fibreglass with a mould or form from which it
will later be removed, you will need to apply a release agent to stop
the fibreglass from sticking to the mould, for simple moulds you can
coat the surface with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) release liquid, for larger
or complex moulds, a two stage parting compound of non silicone wax and
PVA is generally used.
Apply the wax first and let it dry completely, polish up, repeat twice
more, then apply the PVA using a sponge or brush to lay on a thin even
coat, protect the surface of the mould from dust whilst the parting
compound is drying
Polyester resin is usually available as a two-component system, with
resin in one container and the hardener often known as the catalyst in
the other.
Be sure to follow the manufacturers mixing instructions exactly,
combining the components carefully to avoid mixing air bubbles, which
weaken the cured resin.
Usually the resin contains an accelerator, also called a promoter, which
speeds the cure time, but some times this component needs to be added
separately, if you are adding an accelerator, be absolutely sure you mix
it into the resin before you add the catalyst.
The catalyst must be handled with great care at all times; it is a
corrosive substance and can ignite spontaneously when in contact with
materials like paper and rags.
A special resin called gelcoat is always used as the outermost layer in
fibreglass lamination.
This un-reinforced resin provides a smooth, glossy, protective layer
between the glassfibre and outside moisture.
It is applied as the first layer in the mould, by using a pigmented gel
coat, either pre-mixed or mixed on the job with up to 10 per cent of a
suitable polyester pigment paste, you can impart the surface colour of
your choice to the fibreglass.
LAYING UP or FIBRE GLASSING using a MOULD (female).
Typically a brushing gelcoat will be either clear or pre-pigmented and
have thixotropic (non-drip) properties.
When catalysed it is applied to the prepared mould surface ensuring
complete coverage to a minimum thickness of 0.5mm.
The spread rate is around two ounces per square foot.
It now needs some time to cure, a minimum of four hours should be
allowed, otherwise the solvent in the laminating resin next applied
could attack the gelcoat causing wrinkling.
Cut all the glass fabric to the approximate size before mixing the
resin, this can be done with scissors or a trimming knife; glass matting
can also be torn.
If the matting edges are to be overlapped, torn edges are most suitable
as they will intermingle within the resin and make the joint without a
visible seam.
The next step is to paint over the cured gelcoat with lay-up resin, then
apply your first layer of matting, to impregnate the glass fibre with
resin, use a paint roller or brush, stippling the brush over the fabric
so as not to dislocate the glass strands with the sticky, resin coated
bristles.
Never apply more than the amount of resin recommended by the
manufacturer of the fabric; the heat generated by the resin as it cures
can adversely affect the laminate if applied in quantities too great.
Some polyester resins cure completely only in the absence of air, left
exposed, they remain tacky indefinitely.
This can be an advantage in multi layer laminations over a large area,
where new coats are usually applied before the previous coat has cured,
a forming process called wet on wet.
As the fibreglass layers begin to cure (called the “green” stage)
trimming can be done easily (using a sharp blade) but you have to be
quick as this stage may only last three to four minutes.
The work can be interrupted for several hours without harming the
laminate.
When using such resins, however, the final coat must be sealed with
flowcoat or covered with an airtight polyethylene film until the resin
cures, after which the film can be peeled off.
The male moulding now needs to cure for several hours but can be
shortened somewhat by post curing methods, involving warm air, still or
fan applied.
When sufficiently cured, the moulding will be wanting to shrink away
from the sides of the mould, this can be helped along by dissolving the
blue release agent with water poured along the edges.
Because
working with resin is messy, use disposable utensils for measuring and
mixing wherever possible.
Keep tools soaking in solvent so you will be able to clean them when the
job is completed, before the resin hardens.
A supply of clean rags is essential for removing spilled resin, and the
floor beneath the work should be covered with newspaper to catch the
drips, which are difficult to remove once they have hardened.
In
addition, the laminating process also requires you to use several
specialised tools.
One of these tools is a paddle roller or split washer type for
consolidating resin and glass and at the same time pushing away any air
bubbles that form between the layers, these rollers come in several
forms, with washer or paddle shaped blades, and in sizes ranging from 6
to 300mmm wide.
For use on contoured surfaces there is a flexible roller, with a head
resembling a coiled spring.
To trim and finish the completed lamination, if you didn’t do this
during the “green stage”, you will need a metal cutting saw, a
forming tool such as a file or rasp, and a supply of wet and dry paper
from 240 to 600 grit.
Most
of the components used in laminating fibreglass are irritants.
Always wear a respirator and goggles when you are cutting or sanding
fibreglass to protect yourself from the fine glass fibres released into
the air.
Protect your skin with gloves when you are handling the material.
Both the resin and hardener are caustic, inflammable and toxic.
Work with them in a well-ventilated place, away from flame, and keep
them away from skin and eyes.
Because
of the large quantities of resin often involved, laminating is best done
outdoors, where the fumes are less dangerous. But do not work outdoors
when temperatures are below 12° C, or the cure may remain incomplete.
Also, avoid direct sunlight and hot or cold draughts, as these can
adversely affect the curing process, the risk being rapid gelling or
retarded cure.
Glass
fibre work is quite an easy skill to master, providing you have the
right tools and materials, and approach it in a methodical manner.
Some of the basic hardware you need to work efficiently are, plastic
buckets, brushes, rollers, cleaning solvent (acetone), cleaning rags
(stockinette), wet & dry abrasive paper, Stanley knife, coarse file
or small grinder, latex gloves, face mask, and also a little knowledge
gained from reading STEVENS hints & tips and guide sheets, on
fibre glassing.
The basic material components include, release agent, gelcoat, resin,
glass mat, glass cloth, glass tissue, and flowcoat, with the above you
can produce many different jobs or constructions, and with a little
practice achieve highly professional results.
CHOPPED
STRAND MAT (CSM).
The most common fibreglass reinforcement, is made up of randomly
arranged glass fibre strands, pressed and held together with a binding
agent.
Available mainly, in three different weights, one, one and half, and two
ounces per square foot. Metric equivalents are 300g, 450g, and 600g per
square metre, or GSM.
CSM lends itself ideally to most laminating jobs including,
boatbuilding, car body, roofing, ponds, etc.
WOVEN
CLOTH.
Glass fibre filaments, spun into a yarn then woven to make cloth,
provides great strength with minimal thickness, is usually used as an
alternate layer between CSM, giving added strength without substantially
increasing laminate thickness.
GLASS
FIBRE TISSUE.
A very fine mat weighing approx one ounce per square yard, used as the
final layer, to conceal the coarser texture of CSM, and give a smoother
finish.
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